baked oatmeal with caramelized pears and vanilla cream
spinach, mushroom, and goat cheese slab frittata
everything drop biscuits with cream cheese
ricotta blini with honey, orange, and sea salt
loaded breakfast potato skins
sticky toffee waffles
raspberry hazelnut brioche bostock
polenta-baked eggs with corn, tomato, and fontina
magical two-ingredient oat brittle
flipped crispy egg taco with singed greens
alex’s bloody mary prawn cocktail
perfect blueberry muffins
SALADS
cauliflower wedge
mango apple ceviche with sunflower seeds
potatoes and asparagus gribiche
winter slaw with farro
smashed cucumber salad with salted peanuts and wasabi peas
sushi takeout cobb
kale caesar with broken eggs and crushed croutons
charred corn succotash with lime and crispy shallots
whitefish and pickled cucumber salad
fennel, pear, celery, and hazelnut salad
fall-toush salad with delicata squash and brussels sprouts
carrot salad with tahini, crisped chickpeas, and salted pistachios
SOUPS AND STEWS
red lentil soup, dal style
pea tortellini in parmesan broth
mini–matzo ball soup with horseradish and herbs
roasted tomato soup with grilled cheddar
cucumber yogurt gazpacho with mint, almonds, and grapes
spiced carrot and pepper soup with a couscous swirl
grandma-style chicken noodle soup
manhattan-style clams with fregola
SANDWICHES, TARTS, AND FLATBREADS
broccoli melts
artichoke and parmesan galette
leek, feta, and greens spiral pie
barbecued yogurt flatbreads
corn, bacon, and rocket pizza
roasted tomato picnic sandwich
a very simple pizza dough
winter squash flatbread with hummus and za’atar
a dense, grainy daily bread
VEGETABLE MAINS
halloumi roast with aubergine, courgette, and tomatoes
parmesan dutch baby with creamed mushrooms
crispy tofu and broccoli with sesame-peanut pesto
fried green plantains with avocado black bean salsa
broccoli, cheddar, and wild rice fritters
wild mushroom shepherd’s pie
spring fried barley with a sesame sizzled egg
courgette-stuffed courgette with sorta salsa verde
romesco, chickpea, and smashed egg bowl
dry-rub sweet potato steaks with green bean slaw
tomato and gigante bean bake / pizza beans
my go-to garlic bread
cacio e pepe potatoes anna
caramelized cabbage risotto
mujadara-stuffed cabbage with minted tomato sauce
spaghetti pangrattato with crispy eggs
brussels and three cheese pasta bake
one-pan farro with tomatoes
MEAT MAINS
brick hens with charred lemon
siberian pelmeni
crispy short rib carnitas with sunset slaw
quick sausage, kale, and crouton sauté
smoky sheet pan chicken with cauliflower
chicken and rice, street cart style
barbecued squid with chickpeas, chillies, and lemon
meatballs marsala with egg noodles and chives
beef tomato skirt steak salad with blue cheese and parsley basil vinaigrette
pork tenderloin agrodolce with squash rings
sizzling beef bulgogi tacos
miso maple ribs with roasted spring onions
bacony baked pintos with the works
SWEETS
cookies
two thick, chewy oatmeal raisin chocolate chip mega-cookies
strawberry cloud cookies
double coconut meltaways
olive oil shortbread with rosemary and chocolate chunks
pretzel linzers with salted caramel
bakery-style butter cookies
tarts and pies
wintry apple bake with double ginger crumble
julie’s punked strawberry tart
chocolate pecan slab pie
caramelized plum tartlets
apricot pistachio squares
bake sale winning-est gooey oat bars
cake
marble bundt cake
the smeteneh küchen / sour cream coffee cake
banana bread roll
marzipan petit four cake
chocolate peanut butter icebox cake
the party cake builder
spice cake
coconut cake
fudgy chocolate cake
golden vanilla cake
chocolate buttercream frosting
vanilla buttercream frosting
coconut buttercream frosting
cream cheese frosting
puddings, frozen things, etc.
blackout brownie waffle sundae
lemon meringue pie smash
cheesecake semifreddo with gingersnaps and cranberries
danish rice pudding with cherry black pepper sauce
peach melba popsicles
toasted marshmallow milkshake
cannoli zeppole
APPS, SNACKS, AND PARTY FOOD
kale-dusted pecorino popcorn
herb and garlic baked camembert
chopped liver on rye, roumanian steakhouse style
mom’s bread bowl with spinach liptauer and pickled red onions
crushed olives with almonds, celery, and parmesan
garden gin and tonic with cucumber, lime, and mint
pomegranate and orange peel fizz
acknowledgments
measurements
a guide for special menus
copyright
list of recipes
a dense, grainy daily bread
a very simple pizza dough
alex’s bloody mary prawn cocktail
apricot pistachio squares
artichoke and parmesan galette
bacony baked pintos with the works
bake sale winning-est gooey oat bars
baked oatmeal with caramelized pears and vanilla cream
bakery-style butter cookies
banana bread roll
barbecued squid with chickpeas, chillies, and lemon
barbecued yogurt flatbreads
beef tomato skirt steak salad with blue cheese and parsley basil vinaigrette
blackout brownie waffle sundae
brick hens with charred lemon
broccoli, cheddar, and wild rice fritters
broccoli melts
brussels and three cheese pasta bake
cacio e pepe potatoes anna
cannoli zeppole
caramelized cabbage risotto
caramelized plum tartlets
carrot salad with tahini, crisped chickpeas, and salted pistachios
cauliflower wedge
charred corn succotash with lime and crispy shallots
cheesecake semifreddo with gingersnaps and cranberries
chicken and rice, street cart style
chocolate buttercream frosting
chocolate peanut butter icebox cake
chocolate pecan slab pie
chopped liver on rye, roumanian steakhouse style
coconut buttercream frosting
coconut cake
corn, bacon, and rocket pizza
courgette-stuffed courgette with sorta salsa verde
cream cheese frosting
crispy short rib carnitas with sunset slaw
crispy tofu and broccoli with sesame-peanut pesto
crushed olives with almonds, celery, and parmesan
cucumber yogurt gazpacho with mint, almonds, and grapes
danish rice pudding with cherry black pepper sauce
deli rye english muffins
double coconut meltaways
dry-rub sweet potato steaks with green bean slaw
everything drop biscuits with cream cheese
fall-toush salad with delicata squash and brussels sprouts
fennel, pear, celery, and hazelnut salad
flipped crispy egg taco with singed greens
fried green plantains with avocado black bean salsa
fudgy chocolate cake
garden gin and tonic with cucumber, lime, and mint
golden vanilla cake
grandma-style chicken noodle soup
granola biscotti
halloumi roast with aubergine, courgette, and tomatoes
herb and garlic baked camembert
jam-bellied bran scones
julie’s punked strawberry tart
kale caesar with broken eggs and crushed croutons
kale-dusted pecorino popcorn
leek, feta, and greens spiral pie
lemon meringue pie smash
loaded breakfast potato skins
magical two-ingredient oat brittle
mango apple ceviche with sunflower seeds
manhattan-style clams with fregola
marble bundt cake
marzipan petit four cake
meatballs marsala with egg noodles and chives
mini–matzo ball soup with horseradish and herbs
miso maple ribs with roasted spring onions
mom’s bread bowl with spinach liptauer and pickled red onions
mujadara-stuffed cabbage with minted tomato sauce
my go-to garlic bread
olive oil shortbread with rosemary and chocolate chunks
one-pan farro with tomatoes
parmesan dutch baby with creamed mushrooms
pea tortellini in parmesan broth
peach melba popsicles
perfect blueberry muffins
polenta-baked eggs with corn, tomato, and fontina
pomegranate and orange peel fizz
pork tenderloin agrodolce with squash rings
potatoes and asparagus gribiche
pretzel linzers with salted caramel
quick sausage, kale, and crouton sauté
raspberry hazelnut brioche bostock
red lentil soup, dal style
ricotta blini with honey, orange, and sea salt
roasted tomato picnic sandwich
roasted tomato soup with grilled cheddar
romesco, chickpea, and smashed egg bowl
siberian pelmeni
sizzling beef bulgogi tacos
smashed cucumber salad with salted peanuts and wasabi peas
smoky sheet pan chicken with cauliflower
spaghetti pangrattato with crispy eggs
spice cake
spiced carrot and pepper soup with a couscous swirl
spinach, mushroom, and goat cheese slab frittata
spring fried barley with a sesame sizzled egg
sticky toffee waffles
strawberry cloud cookies
sushi takeout cobb
the party cake builder
the smeteneh küchen / sour cream coffee cake
toasted marshmallow milkshake
tomato and gigante bean bake / pizza beans
two thick, chewy oatmeal raisin chocolate chip mega-cookies
vanilla buttercream frosting
whitefish and pickled cucumber salad
wild mushroom shepherd’s pie
winter slaw with farro
winter squash flatbread with hummus and za’atar
wintry apple bake with double ginger crumble
ABOUT THE BOOK
Deb Perelman, award-winning blogger and New York
Times bestselling author of The Smitten Kitchen
Cookbook, understands that a happy discovery in
the kitchen has the ability to completely change the course
of a day. Whether we’re cooking for ourselves, for a date
night in, for a Sunday supper with friends, or for family on
a busy weeknight, we all want recipes that are unfussy to
make with triumphant results.
Deb thinks that cooking should be an escape from
drudgery. Smitten Kitchen Every Day: Triumphant and
Unfussy New Favorites presents more than one hundred
impossible-to-resist recipes—almost all of them brand new,
plus a few favorites from her website—that will make you
want to stop what you’re doing and cook right now. These
are real recipes for real people—people with busy lives who
don’t want to sacrifice flavor or quality to eat meals they’re
really excited about.
You’ll want to put these recipes in your Forever Files:
Sticky Toffee Waffles (sticky toffee pudding you can eat for
breakfast), Everything Drop Biscuits with Cream Cheese,
and Magical Two-Ingredient Oat Brittle (a happy accident).
There’s (hopelessly, unapologetically inauthentic) Kale Caesar
with Broken Eggs and Crushed Croutons, Mango Apple
Ceviche with Sunflower Seeds, and Grandma-Style Chicken
Noodle Soup that fixes everything. You can make Leek, Feta,
and Greens Spiral Pie, crunchy Brussels and Three Cheese
Pasta Bake that tastes better with brussels sprouts than
without, Beef Tomato Skirt Steak Salad, and Bacony Baked
Pintos with the Works (as in giant bowls of beans that you
can dip into, like nachos).
And, of course, no meal is complete without cake (and
cookies and pies and puddings): Chocolate Peanut Butter
Icebox Cake (the icebox cake to end all icebox cakes), Pretzel
Linzers with Salted Caramel, Strawberry Cloud Cookies, Bake
Sale Winning-est Gooey Oat Bars, as well as the ultimate
Party Cake Builder—four one-bowl cakes for all occasions
with mix-and-match frostings (bonus: less time spent doing
dishes means everybody wins).
Written with Deb’s trademark humor and gorgeously
illustrated with her own photographs, Smitten Kitchen
Every Day is filled with what are sure to be your new favorite
things to cook.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Deb Perelman is a self-taught home cook, photographer, and the creator of smittenkitchen.com. She is the author of the New York Times best-selling The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, which won the IACP Julia Child Award. Deb lives in New York City with her husband, son, and daughter.
ALSO BY DEB PERELMAN
The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook
For Anna Helen and Jacob Henry, who made our family complete
against drudgery
(or, in praise of the unfussy but triumphant)
One of the delights of life is eating with friends; second to that is talking about eating. And, for an unsurpassed double whammy, there is talking about eating while you are eating with friends. People who like to cook like to talk about food. Plain old cooks (as opposed to geniuses in fancy restaurants) tend to be friendly. After all, without one cook giving another cook a tip or two, human life might have died out a long time ago.
—LAURIE COLWIN,Home Cooking
We home cooks have never gathered in force to speak out in defense of home cooking. So the image of cookery as drudgery lives on.
—MARION CUNNINGHAM,Lost Recipes
THIS ISN’T THE cookbook I had expected to write.
When The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook headed to the printer in 2012, we were a family of three. Our two-year-old was eating table food, but in a dabbling way. Mostly, I cooked the food that I was excited to eat, and little about having a kid changed how I went about it. In the years since, we’ve added another delicious little human to our family, and while most people will tell you that going from zero kids to one is the big adjustment, in the kitchen, the shift from one to two was more dramatic. All of a sudden, it wasn’t just us plus an extra half-portion stripped of offending chilli peppers or with some couscous on the side to bait a suspicious toddler to the table. Quickly, half our family (ahem, the noisier half) needed square meals at predictable times and I, well … I began to understand why not everyone jumps with joy when it’s time to make dinner.
On any given night, most of us have countless really excellent reasons not to cook—be it picky kids, spouses, or roommates, or the extinction of a 9-to-5 workday that might actually get you home in time to assemble dinner for yourself, your friends, or your family. Even the people who are ostensibly cheering for you to cook can do more harm than good, be they restaurant chefs who forget you may not have a line of prep cooks at your disposal, recipe writers who alienate the budget-conscious by insisting on the “best” olive oil, or home-cooking advocates who tell you the very best thing you can do for your health/your children’s IQ/the economy/environment/nothing short of this earth (oh, the pressure!) is cook dinner every night—people who have clearly not spent a lot of time in the chaos of most households at Hangry O’Clock. (Roughly, 30 minutes after pizza would have been there already, at least around here.)
I began to wonder if it was time to write about the realities and practicalities of cooking. You know:
• How to Keep the Joy in Cooking
• 42-ish Minute Meals (But You’ll Have to Rush)
• Things to Make with Broccoli and/or Sweet Potatoes, the Only Vegetables Everyone Agrees on This Week
• Just Kidding, the Baby Ate Blueberries for Dinner Again
There was only one problem: I didn’t want to write this book at all. And so I did not. I continued sharing new recipes a couple times a week on my website, Smitten Kitchen. I launched a newsletter. I worked with people to usher the technology behind my site into its second decade of web life. I started working with Food Network on a digital series. I spent a lot of time around the table with friends and family and couldn’t help but notice that what was regularly taking place—telling stories, workshopping silly armchair philosophies, cracking up over the baby’s antics—barely resembled the compromised, plodding hypotheses I’d set out about cooking when life gets busier.
What I have always loved about cooking is the way a happy discovery—a new way to meatball, a four-ingredient farro that has caused more than 800 comment section exclamation points, cookies that look like clouds and taste like pink lemonade, crunchy spaghetti with crispy eggs, a birthday cake you can make from scratch in just over an hour (yes, really) or maybe even four of them—has the power to completely change the course of a day.
I like the way that when you make something new and awesome, the first thing you want to do is tell another friend about it so they can make it, too. I like the way following a recipe to the letter can feel like handing the reins over after a long day of having to make all the decisions, but also that pulling off a good meal when you least expected is the fastest way to feel triumphant, even if your day left you short of opportunities to. I like the way that when you sublimate your wanderlust in a dish—a cacio e pepe addiction picked up in Rome or a Thai-ish salad with crispy shallots, lime, and fish sauce—it becomes a gateway, or an escape hatch, to so much more than dinner. I like the way that when you cook at home, you don’t actually have to compromise a thing; you get to make exactly what you want, exactly the way you want it, and then you get to invite all your favorite people over to pass the dish around. I like the way a great meal makes grouchy people ungrouchy or turns a thankless day filled with thankless stuff into a hilarious one. And I like the way the prospect of a fudgy one-bowl chocolate cake with a raft of chocolate frosting one hour from now might make us cancel our other plans.
And the thing is, people—that is, you, the people who have come along for all or part of Smitten Kitchen’s decade-plus story—had been trying to tell me this the whole time.
The stories in the comments and in my inbox are as much about the cooking as they are about the life around it—the delight from the surprise of a good meal, the person who thought they hated broccoli or brussels sprouts finding that with the right preparation, they adore both, or finding, on a morning you think there’s no reason to cook, a new pancake recipe that you’re too curious not to make. This doesn’t mean that these dishes aren’t practical, that they cannot fit into a busy life, that they cannot accommodate picky eaters and grocery stores with limited imaginations, it simply means that they don’t do that before—they don’t prioritize that over—making food that we are really, really excited to eat.
This book is—forgive me—how I got my groove back.
These recipes don’t just fit into our lives, they make us happy.
It’s great big bowls of beans that we dip into like nachos.
It’s my kids’ beloved roasted sweet potatoes given the dry-rub barbecue treatment, slaw and all.
It’s the famous chopped liver you get in a windowless basement restaurant on Chrystie Street that’s like a Bar Mitzvah that never ends (in a good way).
It’s a crunchy three cheese pasta bake that tastes better with brussels sprouts (yes, brussels sprouts) than without.
It’s giant white beans cooked to the tune of baked ziti, bronzed melty lid and all.
It’s the hopelessly unapologetically inauthentic kale caesar we make almost every week of the year.
It’s the English-muffin-meets-Jewish-deli-rye-bread recipe I promised to a library full of people a book tour ago.
It’s a modern matzo ball soup and the beef bulgogi tacos I fell in love with at the Jersey shore.
It’s a whole-grain bread for people who don’t like to knead or time things, a bread that works on your schedule and not vice versa.
And such a great big noisy fuss over cake (and cookies and pies and popsicles).
The jam-filled, sprinkle-rolled butter cookies I made at the bakery where I worked in high school.
The gooey oat and chocolate cookie bars that will win bake sales.
The strawberry tart that the friend we picked up at a party sixteen years ago coached me through over Skype from Germany.
The chocolate icebox cake to end all icebox cakes, with peanut butter too.
The crumb cake with impeccable priorities—that is, more crumbs than cake—and a very familiar name.
A sticky toffee pudding, but breakfast-style.
The blueberry muffins I made fifty ways before finding my forever formula.
And an accidental two-ingredient granola.
So while this isn’t the cookbook I expected to write, I like the one that’s emerged much more—a celebration of breakfast, dinner, cake, and everything in between, and maybe a bit of resistance, too: against the idea that cooking must be an obstacle to overcome or that the food we most want to eat cannot also be practical. This book is all of my new favorite things to cook, and I hope you’ll find a few worthy of your Repeat Forever files, too.
breakfast
deli rye english muffins
granola biscotti
jam-bellied bran scones
baked oatmeal with caramelized pears and vanilla cream
spinach, mushroom, and goat cheese slab frittata
everything drop biscuits with cream cheese
ricotta blini with honey, orange, and sea salt
loaded breakfast potato skins
sticky toffee waffles
raspberry hazelnut brioche bostock
polenta-baked eggs with corn, tomato, and fontina
magical two-ingredient oat brittle
flipped crispy egg taco with singed greens
alex’s bloody mary prawn cocktail
perfect blueberry muffins
deli rye english muffins
makes 12 miniature or 8 standard-sized muffins
MY FAVORITE THING about this recipe is where it started, which, specifically, was in front of a library full of people in St. Louis while I was on a book tour. Someone asked me how I came up with recipes, and I’m sorry if it disappoints you to learn this, but I’ve never been good on my feet and was as fumbling and inarticulate as ever: “Uh, sometimes they just come to me? Or I’ll just get an idea when I’m on the crosstown bus and …” It was pretty bad, but since there was no one to rescue me, I just blathered along. “… Like, this morning, I was thinking how cool it would be if you could make an English muffin that tasted like rye bread, because they’re my two favorite kinds of toast to go with eggs,” and someone said, “You should! Now you can start your second book!”
So, as fated—eh, 4.5 years and one kid later—I began here. I learned a few things along the way. English muffin recipes are divided into two camps: those that require pastry rings to hold the batter in shape, and those that use a thicker dough but allow you to free-form them. The first category make for great nooks and crannies, but are unquestionably a pest to maneuver. The second category have some nooks and a few crannies but don’t require any specialty-store purchases. To get the results of the peskier method without the hassle, I found you had to use a softer dough.
And then, once you’ve made English muffins that taste like a good deli rye bread, what do you do with them? They’re excellent with a heap of scrambled eggs or a crispy fried one, maybe with a little hash underneath. They’re good for any kind of sandwich you’d normally put on rye. But toasting them with sweet butter is always my first choice.
Combine the yeast and water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Let rest 5 minutes; the yeast should dissolve and look slightly foamy. Gently warm the buttermilk, butter, and sugar to lukewarm (not hot), and add it to the yeast mixture, followed by the flours, salt, and caraway. Use the dough hook to combine until a shaggy, uneven dough forms; knead it on the lowest speed for 5 minutes, until the dough is stretchy and cohesive. Butter or oil a large bowl (or do as I do and remove the dough long enough to oil the mixing bowl, then return the dough to it), and let the dough proof at room temperature, covered with a dishcloth or plastic wrap, for 1 hour. (Until it has risen by at least one-third.)
Lightly spray a large baking sheet with oil, then generously sprinkle it with cornmeal. Lightly flour your counter, turn the dough out onto it, flour the top, and gently deflate it with your hands. Divide the dough into pieces; twelve pieces for minis, eight for standard muffins. Roll them gently into balls, and place on the cornmealed baking sheet, pressing gently to flatten them into discs (about ¾-inch thick). Spray the tops lightly with oil, and sprinkle them with cornmeal, too. Cover loosely, and proof at room temperature for 30 minutes more or up to 3 days in the fridge. If chilled, let them warm up for 30 minutes at room temperature before cooking.
Heat the oven to 120°C/gas ½.
Let a cast-iron frying pan warm over the lowest heat for 5 to 7 minutes, then lightly coat the inside with neutral cooking oil for insurance against sticking, but not enough that the muffins will fry. Dust off the excess cornmeal from the muffins. Let the bottom of each muffin brown slowly and very gently in the pan, about 5 minutes. (If yours are taking longer, you can bump up the heat to medium-low.) Flip them, and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes. You can flip back and forth again if needed for even cooking.
Shake the excess cornmeal off the baking sheet, and transfer pan-toasted muffins to the oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until the sides are firm to the touch. Cool to almost room temperature, then fork-split.
Deli Rye English Muffins
granola biscotti
makes 36 biscotti
THERE ARE A lot of good reasons to make and eat the finger-shaped twice-baked dunkable cookies known as biscotti, cantuccini, and sometimes even mandelbrodt, and most involve delicious things to drink: coffee, black tea, and vin santo and other dessert wines. But where’s the cookie that will help you get through breakfast for the week you’ve promised to plain, unsweetened yogurt? I mean, your intentions were good—those flavored yogurts are full of stuff nobody really needs to eat—but there’s nothing like a little granola to break up the monotony.
These help. Part biscotti but mostly granola, they’re full of oats, nuts, coconut, dried fruit; just barely sweetened, they’re the ideal companion to your best breakfast intentions. Plus, they keep for weeks, which means you can grab one or two per day and pretty much never regret having them on you.
Mix the flour, rolled oats, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. Whisk the melted butter and sugars in the bottom of a large bowl. Whisk in the eggs and vanilla. Stir in the dry ingredients, nuts, coconut, and dried fruit. Expect a stiff batter.
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 165°C/gas 3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
On a floured counter, using floured hands roll half the dough into a log a little shy of the length of your baking sheet, 12 to 14 inches. Transfer the dough log to the baking sheet, and pat lightly until it becomes more oval-shaped. Repeat with the second half of the dough. Beat the egg white until foamy, and brush it over logs. Bake the logs for 20 minutes, until they are lightly golden brown and beginning to form cracks.
Let cool almost completely (it’s okay if the centers are still lukewarm), about 1 hour. With a serrated knife, cut the logs on the bias into ½-inch-thick slices. They will be crumbly; cut as gently as possible. Transfer the slices back to the parchment-lined baking sheet, and lay flat in a single layer. Bake for another 20 minutes, until toasted and crisp. (If you like, you can flip them halfway for more even browning, but you will have good color on them either way.)
Cool the biscotti on the baking sheet, or transfer to a rack.
note This recipe should prove very tweakable; you could use cinnamon, or almond extract, add citrus zest, vary the fruits and sweeteners. You could swap half the flour for whole wheat or even oat flour. Or you could add some chocolate chips. Who could blame you?
do ahead Biscotti keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks, and longer if well wrapped in the freezer.
Granola Biscotti
jam-bellied bran scones
makes 10 scones
IN THE MUFFIN Olympics, my favorite—bran muffins—would never even make the team. I get that gritty brown masses hardly have the appeal of blueberry-buttermilk, sweet-cornmeal, banana-walnut, and pumpkin-spice, but I’ve always enjoyed their quiet, nutty complexity—plus, it’s kind of adorable, the way I convince myself that they’re healthier, right? So I decided that they needed a makeover, and I reformatted them as scones, and pretty ones at that. Preloading the scones with jam makes them self-contained packets of breakfast luxury. Yes, like a jelly doughnut but still craggy and wholesome enough that we get to enjoy them way more often.
Heat the oven to 190°C/gas 5, and line a baking tray with parchment paper.
Combine the flour, bran, baking powder, salt, and brown sugar in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingertips or a pastry blender, work it into the flour mixture until the largest bits are the size of small peas. Add the sour and double creams, and stir until the mixture forms big clumps. Knead once or twice, just by sticking your hands into the bowl, until it comes together in one mass.
On a very well-floured surface, roll out the dough to about ½-inch thickness. Cut into 2½-inch rounds and then gently reroll scraps as needed. Use your thumb to make an impression in the “belly” (center) of half of them. Dollop ½ to 1 teaspoon jam in the center, brush the edges with egg wash, and use one of the plain, nonindented rounds as a lid. Press gently together at edges, sealing in the jam. Repeat with the remaining rounds.
Transfer the scones to the prepared baking sheet, and brush the tops with egg wash. Sprinkle each scone with about ¼ teaspoon coarse sugar, and bake for 16 to 19 minutes. Let the scones cool on the tray for 5 or so minutes before carefully lifting and transferring them to cooling racks.
Jam-Bellied Bran Scones
baked oatmeal with caramelized pears and vanilla cream
makes 6 portions
THIS IS MY deep-into-winter escape from hot-cereal drudgery, a casserole-formatted, lightly luxurious baked oatmeal that I make at the start of a week and heat up one portion at a time. I really love fruit with my oatmeal, but it usually ends up falling to the convenience of dried fruit stirred in. This is better. You begin by roasting lemony pears in a bit (just a bit!) of butter, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds until the juices begin to release and self-caramelize in the pan. From here, you build a somewhat standard baked oatmeal on top, something we should thank the Amish for including in old cookbooks—but I’m actually going to thank Heidi Swanson of 101 Cookbooks for introducing this to the wider web audience. Eggs and a little bit of baking soda give the oats some cohesion and lift; the pear caramel makes it otherworldly. So does one other thing: the tiniest trickle of a sweetened vanilla cream on top. You could use milk, I suppose—but I don’t, because once I tried this at a restaurant there was no going back. It is, in one pour, a coolant, a sweetener, and something to loosen the whole bit up. If this sounds like work, keep in mind that you’re going to get six amazing breakfasts from it, a better return on investment than I get from most from scratch soups, dinners, or cakes, and—ahem, I’m just saying—none of them self-caramelize.
make the vanilla sugar Place the sugar in a small bowl. Split the vanilla bean, scrape the seeds into the sugar, and use your fingertips to distribute the seeds throughout; the abrasion helps release more flavor. Save the pod: there’s tons more flavor to be had, and we’re going to use it.
Heat the oven to 200°C/gas 6. While it’s heating, place butter in a 9-by-13-inch or equivalent-sized baking dish in the oven to let it melt.
prepare the pears Finely grate the zest of half of your lemon and set it aside; you’ll use it later. Juice the whole lemon, you’ll use it now. Peel the pears, split them lengthwise, and remove cores and any thick-looking stems. Toss the pears with the lemon juice. Remove the baking dish with melted butter from the oven, and sprinkle 100 grams vanilla sugar into it. Arrange the pears, cut side down, over the sugar, and drizzle with any lemon juice left in bowl. Cover tightly with foil, and bake for 20 minutes. Then remove foil and bake another 10 minutes.
while pears are baking Whisk the milk, water, butter, eggs, salt, and reserved zest together in a large bowl. Sprinkle the baking powder over these and stir to combine; add oats, and stir again.
bake the oats Use a thin spatula to turn the pears over carefully, spooning as much sauce from the pan over the pears as they will hold. Reduce heat to 180°C/gas 4. Dollop the oat mixture around the pears in the pan. Return the dish to the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the pears are soft and the oatmeal edges are golden brown.
meanwhile, make vanilla cream Bring the cream, remaining vanilla sugar, and reserved empty vanilla bean pod to a simmer in a saucepan. Simmer 5 minutes, reducing to 175 ml. Chill the mixture if you prefer cold cream on your hot oatmeal (i.e., if you’re me).
to serve Scoop one pear half and its surrounding oatmeal into a bowl, and drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons vanilla cream. Refrigerate leftovers until needed, up to one week, warming one portion at a time.
Baked Oatmeal with Caramelized Pears and Vanilla Cream
spinach, mushroom, and goat cheese slab frittata
makes 12 squares of frittata
HERE’S ONE TINY, albeit impolite, advantage to having a small apartment in Manhattan: nobody asks if they can spend the night. There are no “spare” bedrooms, and although my son does have a lovely trundle, he likes to wake at the crack of dawn to make things out of Play-Doh. You, too, right?
Thus, I’m a little unfamiliar with the logistics of houseguests. I mean, I love a good dinner party—the planning, the conversation, the efficiency of meals scaled to group size—but I’ve always wondered, what happens when your guests stay the night? Do they … expect you to cook again in the morning? Because that sounds terrible unless you have a plan.
In such a situation, this would be mine: I began scaling frittatas to group size out of curiosity, and they were such a hit that they’re now in the regular rotation. There’s almost nothing a giant frittata can’t do. They make an excellent plan-ahead breakfast, either at the start of a workweek or in advance of weekend entertaining, because the squares reheat well. Add some freshly baked biscuits (similar to an unsweetened British scone) or your favorite bread and you’ve got an egg sandwich. But we’ve also found frittatas a welcome addition to lunch—at room temperature, on a bed of salad greens, with extra crumbled cheese and sliced tomatoes.
Heat the oven to 180°C/gas 4, and butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
prepare the vegetables If you’ve just washed your spinach, no need to dry it before wilting it in the pan. If it’s already dry, bring ½ inch water to a boil in a very large heavy frying pan, then add the spinach and cook, turning with tongs, until wilted, for about 1 minute, then cook, covered, over moderately high heat, until the spinach is tender, 1 to 2 minutes more. Drain in a colander, and cool under cold running water. Gently squeeze handfuls of spinach to remove as much liquid as possible, then coarsely chop it. You will have about 100 grams (½ cup) fairly tightly packed cooked spinach.
Wipe the frying pan dry, turn the heat to medium-high, then add olive oil to the frying pan. Once the oil is hot, add the sausage (if using) and cook until browned, breaking it up with a spatula, for about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, and discard all but 1 tablespoon of drippings. Stir the onion and garlic into the frying pan. Cook over medium-low heat until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms have softened and exuded liquid, and that liquid has cooked off, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg (if using), chopped spinach, and reserved sausage (if using) and bring to a simmer. Remove the frying pan from heat and let cool slightly.
bake the frittata In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, salt, and pepper. Stir in the vegetable mixture, spring onions, and goat cheese. Pour into the prepared dish, and bake until golden and set, about 30 minutes.
to serve Cool on a rack for 5 minutes before serving in squares.
Spinach, Mushroom, and Goat Cheese Slab Frittata
everything drop biscuits with cream cheese
makes 12 biscuits
THEY’RE GOING TO throw me out of New York City for saying this, but there are times when a bagel can feel like too much, too heavy to go with a simple breakfast. I’ll head toward the Holland Tunnel now; I know I’ve shamed my adopted home. But if I go far enough south, nobody is going to question my occasional preference for a biscuit (similar to a British scone). They’re quick, tender, with crisp edges, and just the right size to scoop up some scrambled eggs without sending me back to bed for a nap. Don’t trust New Yorkers around biscuits, though—they’re liable to do things like this to them. An everything biscuit may seem a poor replacement for a well-made bagel, but we find it an enjoyable riff on a standard biscuit. It’s also fun to make: you fling a spoonful of simple cream-cheese-enriched biscuit dough into a seed pit of flavor, give it a tumble, and bake it in the oven. Once the biscuit is broken open and slathered with butter, you get the best of both worlds. If you halve it and add more cream cheese, lox, and capers, you’ve created a brunch that people can neatly eat with their hands. As the holster for a fried-egg sandwich, it trumps a bagel any day. [Ducks.]
Heat the oven to 230°C/gas 9. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the seeds with the onion and garlic granules and coarse salt in a small bowl. In a larger bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and 1 teaspoon salt. Scatter the butter and cream cheese over the dry mixture, and use your fingertips or a pastry blender to work them in until the mixture resembles rubbly sand. Add the milk or buttermilk, and stir until just combined, with the dough clumping together.
Drop the dough in about twelve equal mounds (it’s okay if you get more or less), one at a time, into the everything-seed mixture. Use your fingertips to give them a little half-roll through the seeds, and space them evenly on the baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. (You’ll have some extra seeds. I love these as a garnish.) Bake until golden and your home smells like a bagelry, about 12 minutes.
note The biscuits are best on the first day. You can freeze the unbaked dough in mounds. Let warm slightly from freezer, then roll in the seeds before baking.
Everything Drop Biscuits with Cream Cheese
ricotta blini with honey, orange, and sea salt
makes 16 pancakes
I FIRST DISCOVERED syrniki—fried quark or farmer’s-cheese pancakes—because my mother-in-law makes them for my kids for breakfast when they stay at her house. She’d pack up leftovers for us, but they weren’t the same the next day. It wasn’t until I had them straight from the frying pan at a Russian restaurant in Brighton Beach, N.Y.—all faintly crisped edges, and with an almost oozing center, dusted with icing sugar, and served with a fruit compote—that I understood why there were five comments on my site and two e-mails in a single year requesting a recipe.
It’s blasphemous, but I ditched the farmer’s cheese first, mostly because it’s not as easy to find, and replaced it with ricotta. From there, I swapped the raisins with currants, added sea salt and orange zest, and finished them with honey, a flavor combination I fell in love with at Olive et Gourmando, a café in Montreal. Syrniki by way of Canada sounds a little odd, I know, but there was no going back once we made them like this.